While I was in New Orleans for the Louisiana Oyster Producers meeting, I joined Dr. John Supan on the annual oyster-eating tour he calls his “entourage.” We started with the charbroiled oysters at Drago’s in Metairie. These are prepared on a gas grill by dumping garlicky butter and oil on shucked oysters until the flames shoot up all around the bivalves and char the parmesan cheese and the oyster shells. The char is the key to the incredible flavor. As I reported in Sex, Death & Oysters, these are among the best grilled oysters on the planet.

Drago’s didn’t even serve grilled oysters when it opened 40 years ago.

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